10/19/08 Bay of Islands, New Zealand

New Zealand was originally called “Aotearoa” (Land of the Long White Cloud) by the Maori natives and you still see that reference at times today, particularly on souvenir items. Not sure exactly why that thought popped into my head but, since it did, I thought I’d mention it. In any event, we sailed into the Bay of Islands just about dawn and dropped anchor at around 7:00 am. The sunrise over the islands was magnificent even though the sky was overcast and there was a good chance of rain. As expected, it was cooler than our previous ports although not at all uncomfortable. The tenders were in the water very soon after we anchored, ready to ferry passengers into Paihia, one of several small towns around the Bay. Greg and I had booked a catamaran cruise to Cape Brett and the “Hole in the Rock”, a landmark of the region. Hopefully it won’t rain, seas will be calm and we’ll be able to sail through the “Hole”. It doesn’t always work out that way.

The tenders took us to the pier and we made the short walk to the catamaran operated by Fuller’s Bay of Islands Tours. It’s the standard excursion boat, with an enclosed lower cabin and an open top deck for the hardy souls who don’t mind braving the weather. I flip-flopped between the two cabins, mostly depending on how fast we were moving. It can get pretty cold up top when you’re going full speed and they sell coffee in the lower cabin. We started with a leisurely tour around the shoreline, moved on to some of the other islands, cruised into some of the smaller coves and just generally did some sightseeing. At one point, we stopped to deliver some fruit to a lady and her dog, who met us at her dock. We viewed some seabirds nesting in trees along the shore but never saw any dolphins, unfortunately. All the time, we were working our way farther out toward Cape Brett. So far, we’ve avoided the rain and the seas have cooperated.

Finally we can see Cape Brett Light and the “Hole in the Rock”. We’re pretty much in open water at this point and the seas have become a bit choppy. But still not too bad. As we approached, my first thought was that we were never going to fit through that little opening. But, after hanging around the neighborhood for a little bit (probably to allow for picture-taking), our lady captain began easing the boat towards the opening. It was a very slow approach, gauging the currents I assume, then we started through. It was a strange experience, being on a boat inside a mountain, but we were through in no more than a minute or so. Cool! Now I’m probably the only person in Midlothian, Virginia to have sailed through the “Hole in the Rock”!

We spent a little time sightseeing on the back side of the “Hole” then started back to the dock, with just a little sightseeing along the way. It had been a great excursion and the rain stayed away the entire time. After we reached the dock, Greg and I wandered into town just to take a look around. There were all kinds of stores, bars and restaurants, banks, souvenir shops, etc. located within just a couple of square blocks. We stopped for lunch at a fish ‘n chips place, with tables set up for al fresco dining. I ordered chips (French fries) and a coke and we sat outside, eating and people-watching, for a little while. I stopped at a souvenir shop and picked up a cap, a tee shirt and some postcards. Then we strolled through a craft market along the main street before making our way back to the tender dock for the ride back to the ship.

Looking back, there were several other sights that I wish we had visited while we were there: the Waitangi Treaty House and Museum, Haruru Falls, Russell and Flagstaff Hill, etc. But maybe I’ll see those things on my next visit. For today, it was a terrific introduction to New Zealand.

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